ILOILO HERITAGE HUNTING

ILOILO CAN BE REACHED VIA FERRY FROM BACOLOD CITY OR VIA RORO VESSEL WHICH DOCS ON THE DISTRICT OF DUMAGAS TRAVEL TIME FROM BACOLOD TO ILOILO IS 2 HOURS
HERITAGE TRAIL

Contents
1 HERITAGE TRAIL
2 FOOD TRIP
3 LOCAL FINDS
4 BOARD AND LODGING
5 GETTING AROUND
As we entered the port, we were greeted by several colonial warehouses standing along Muelle Loney and the pre—war customs building. Walking around reveals that remnants and relics of the past are still very much present in the area. Two national historical landmarks—San Jose Church and Plaza Libertad are a short distance away from the port.

According to a local guide, although there are still some significant places that can give a good glimpse of the city’s glorious past, many old establishments were damaged during the Second World War or by big city fires. I learned that the city is actually composed of several 3 districts that include the downtown area called Jaro (seat of the archdiocese), Molo (which was the Chinese enclave or Parian), Villa de Arevalo (a former capital oflloilo province which today is called “Villa” for short), La Paz (most known for its batchoy), and Mandurriao.

It is one charming city I wouldn’t mind getting lost in for a time. For people like me who enjoy gawking at old buildings, Calle Real is a good place to start. From there, it is easy to spot 19205 architecture and Art Deco buildings converted into Commercial shops. Strolling all the way to Basa and Iznart Streets, I saw a number of other heritage sites. To learn more about Iloilo’s cultural and historical heritage, visit the Museo Iloilo (Php 15 admission fee, from 9am until 5pm, Mon-Sat.) along Bonifacio Drive. It houses numerous pre-historic items salvaged from old ships, including jewelry, pottery and other artifacts.

From downtown lloilo, a jeepney ride that costs Php 8.50 brought me to the neo- Gothic church of Molo, also called Santa Ana Church. Located at the Central Plaza, this church built in 1831 and made from coral blocks, is one of the oldest structures in Iloilo. Statues of female saints can be found on each side of the church. The retablo at the center of the church has an image of Sta. Ana, the mother of Mary. Within the vicinity of the church are old houses that are equally stunning.

I was supposed to leave for Jaro, a suburb located in the northern section of the city proper, early the next day but the weather was not that cooperative. It was raining hard in the morning so I decided to stay in the hotel until the weather improved. Fortunately, by lunchtime, I was able to go on the road once again. Riding one of the jeepneys (Php 8.50) with the signage “Jaro CPU”, I set off to meet Eugene Jamerlan of the Iloilo City Cultural Heritage and Conservation Council (ICCHCC) for a scheduled walking tour ofjaro. The heritage houses that we Visited included the Locsin House, the Magdalena Jalandoni House which has become a museum of folk art collected by Jalandoni during her days, the Ledesma Mansion and the Javellana Ancestral Home, located in the rundown area of ]aro.

We also stopped by Lizares Mansion, where the Angelicum School is now located. While the years have caused the architecture of the building to look worn- out, the grand ballroom’s (now the chapel of the school) former grandeur is still very much apparent. An old church located across the plaza is the Sta. Isabel de Ungria Cathedral. The church was completed in 1874 and looks magnificent up to the present. Near the cathedral is The Nelly ; Gardens that showcases 21 1928 Beaux /\rt (beautiful art house) mansion owned by the Lopez clan. With its impressive architcctu,re and sprawling garden, we were told that the place can also be used as a party Venue through a special arrangement.

My third day was marked by another series of church visits in other parts of lloilo. The first town we passed through is Oton where an old church, considered the pinnacle of religious architecture in the country, is located. Unfortunately, this structure was a casualty of the strong earthquake in 1948. The next town, Tigbauan, 22km away from the city proper, also home to the country’s first school for boys of th€ Jesuit Order established in 1592. The Tigbauan Church has interiors decorated with mosaics of the Stations of the Cross- From Tigbauan, the next town is Guimbal.

At the western section of the plaza stands the sandstone church erected during the Spanish era. Interestingly, there are also 17th century watchtowers strewn in the nearby areas. One can be found at approximately 100 meters at the left of the church, near the water’s edge. After visiting Tigbauan, we were off to the little town of Miagao where the Santo Tomas de Villanueva Church is located. This church is one of the four UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the country.

The first thing I noticed about it was its magnificent facade, a true testament to the creativity and craftsmanship of our Filipino ancestors. Other churches we visited in the northern part of Iloilo City included the Sta, Barbara Church, a national h1stor1cal landmark, which is very close to th€ HCW airport, and the Cabatuan Church. After Cabatuan, we proceeded to our last stop, the Dingle Church.

After an overload of churches, we decided to go back to Iloilo City to prepare for our Guimaras trip the next day. At around 9am the next day, we waited at the Ortiz Port near Ateneo de Iloilo for the 15-minute pumpboat ride (Php 13) to the port of Jordan. Boats leave Ortiz port every 15 minutes from 5am to 6pm. To explore the island, we decided to rent a minicab (Php 1,000).First in our list of sites to visit was the OLP Trappist Monastery (tel. nos. O918-4212852/ 033-581-3468, open from 830 am until 430 pm).

The monastery, the only men’s monastery under the Cistercian order, is along the main road going south from the town of San Miguel (Php 15 via jeepney). Local delicacies and pastries made by the monks in the monastery are usually prepared from the sweet mangoes of the province such yema, candies, tarts, bars, piaya, and so much more. From the monastery, we proceeded to Alubihod Beach in Nueva Valencia to swim and freshen up. A fewvans for rent (Php 800) from Jordan are available to get to this town. Jeepneys are another option. After an hour, we went back on the road and proceeded to the Navalas Church in Buenavista, built in the 17th century and the oldest church in the island.

Although the facade of this limestone church is perfectly preserved, the walls and interiors were already renovated. A short distance from the church is the Roca Encantada Heritage House owned by the Lopez family. While the house looks modern from the outside, I noticed the National Historical Institute marker in the area, which means that it is a heritage house. Apart from its historical significance, the house also provides a very picturesque View of the surrounding islands, particularly the Siete Pecados or “Islands of Seven Sins.” If commuting, the area can be reached via tricycle (Php 400).
FOOD TRIP

For the local flavor of Iloilo, I tried batchoy, a special type of noodle soup with pork and beef popular in the Western Visayas region. There are numerous restaurants along the streets of Iznart and Valeria. Also from the streets, I also bought some bibingka, flat rice cakes sold for Php 20.00 for ten pieces.

For dinner, try the Breakthrough Restaurant (Php 100 — 150, open from 7:30am — 9pm) in the Arevalo District. Seafood dishes to sample at this restaurant include abalone sashimi, talaba and the pricey diwal shells among others. Everything is fresh and you can catch your dinner yourself. The restaurant is also located by the beach so the breeze adds to y the ambiance.

Reserve the next dinner at Blango Tree Restaurant. Great ambiance and their sizzling bulalo steak make for one sumptuous dinner. Try their frozen mango iced tea as well. For coffee and a bit of nightlife in Iloilo. we went to Smallville complex (Diversion road). There are several restaurants that can also pass for a special dinner — Feska (tel. no. 033-321-3885, open from 11am till 3pm and 5pm till lam, dishes start at Php 170); Cafe Tijuana (tel. no. 033-337-0696, open from 2pm till 1am on weekdays, 4pm till 1am on weekends).

LOCAL FINDS

I went shopping at the Original Biscocho House since I am a fan of their butterscotch. There are more goodies inside and it’s a must- visit for pas-alubong shopping. Meringue and harquillos also qualify as yummy take home treats from Iloilo. From Guimaras, the best pasalubong to take home is their sweet mangoes. When you're there, try to visit the Alibahon Market in Nueva Valencia to buy these local produce.
BOARD AND LODGING

For budget travelers who wish to stay in the lloilo city proper, they can book accommodations at Madia- as Hotel (tel no. 033-337-2756 to 59, Aldeguer St.) or Fine Rock Hotel (tel. no. 033-336-9075 to 79, Jalandoni St.), the rate per room does not go beyond Php 1,000. For mid-range accommodations, Iloilo Grand Hotel (tel. no. 033-335-1801 to 04, Iznart St.), City Corporate Inn (tel. no. 033-508-1976, cor. Rizal and Guanco St.) offer good value. For high-end accommodations, try Iloilo Business Hotel (tel. no. 033- 320-7972, Diversion Rd. Smallville complex), Sarabia Manor Hotel ( tel. no. 033-335-1021, Gen. Luna St.) with rates that range from Php 1,500 — Php 5,000.
GETTING AROUND

Colorful and some custom designed, the jeepney is the most common mode of transportation in Iloilo. There are also taxis that ply the major roads in the city. Tricycles are used to get to destinations located in the outskirts of the city.